When the first thunder of the wet season rattles the red dirt, the sand monitors start to stir. Rain rouses the goannas from their subterranean hibernation and they emerge to feed and breed in the vibrant, tropical and somewhat misunderstood oasis that is Broome in summer. The local Yawuru people call the wet season “mangala” and the prevailing wisdom is you’d have to be mad to visit this Kimberley resort town at the height of its heat. But from my balcony at Moonlight Bay Suites, I see things rather differently.

For starters, I see the most wondrous colours. Roebuck Bay is an opal blue ribbon sandwiched between dark green mangroves and storm clouds in 50 shades of grey. Lightning flashes and a fierce wind – dare I call it a cooling breeze? – flies across the bay, shredding the surface and setting the palm trees outside my suite swaying. I could sit here all afternoon and just watch the show. So I do. It’s simply mesmerising.

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